Off Piste Guide for Chamonix
Off Piste Guide for Chamonix
The Vallee Blanche is rightly one of the world’s most famous off-piste descents and holds a mystical appeal to skiers and boarders the world over.
Descending the Vallee Blanche takes you through 17km of some of the most sublime scenery in the Alps, passing famous peaks, teetering seracs and gaping crevasses. By the time you reach Chamonix you have descended a whopping 2800 vertical metres.
The (nervous!) excitement begins as you board the Aiguille du Midi lift on the valley floor. Built in 1955, the lift is a staggering piece of engineering and was for a long time the highest cable car in the world. It still holds the record for the greatest ascent of any cable car – rising from 1035m to 3842m in just 20 minutes. It’s the second leg of the cable cart ride that’s the most breathtaking, as you are whisked up the sheer north face of the Aiguille du Midi.
On arrival at the top the dizzying heights and rapid gain in altitude are enough to make you feel light headed. Take some time to relax, breathe deep and admire to stunning panorama. The summit of Mont Blanc seems close enough to touch, while peering down on Chamonix from nearly 3kms up is a humbling experience.
The Arête!
Now comes, for many, the scariest part of the Vallee Blanche – the infamous arête! This narrow ridge plunges 1000m of near vertical rock and ice on one side and perilous tumbling cliffs on the other. Don’t look down! (although of course you inevitably will!).
From mid to late January there is a fixed rope down the arête, for which you will very thankful. It really does feel very ‘airy’ without it!
In addition to fixed rope, your guide – everyone without a good knowledge of the route as well as the necessary high mountain skills should have one – will have you roped up for extra safety. If you slip, your guide will make sure you won't be plunging off the side. Also a good idea is taking a backpack that will hold your skis, leaving both your hands free. For those particularly wary, or if the arête is very icy you make like the added security of crampons – your guide will advise you on this.
After negotiating the arête you arrive on a plateau area where you can catch your breath and put on your skis or strap into your board.
Let the skiing begin…
First you head down along the long flat Geant glacier that sweeps away in the direction of Pointe Helbronner and Italy beyond. On your left the crevasses yawn open as the glacier tumbles away steeply, while looking to your right you’ll see Cosmiques hut and then the notorious Mont Blanc du Tacul. As you pass the large Rognon on your left, take a look right towards the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul for a terrifying glimpse of the infamous Gervasutti couloir – yes, this shoot of near vertical ice has been skied!
You will continue in a long sweeping curve to the left, past yet more open crevasses, following the valley’s gentle meander. Though hard to believe, the scenery gets even more stunning as you descend down the Glaicer du Tacul between the tumbling crevasses and seracs.
Take it easy with your skiing - no funny stuff needed here – you need to be in good control at all times in this crevassed terrain. Plus you’ll have more time to appreciate the scenery if you’re not haring down the mountain!
Once you arrive at the huge expanse of ice that is the Mer de Glace, you have done most of the vertical descent but it’s still a fair way back to town. You can take a picnic stop – make sure it’s a safe stopping place – and look back up at the mass of ice above. Alternatively a minor detour can take you to the Requin hut where you can get lunch and a well deserved drink.
The Mer de Glace is mostly very flat, so can be a bit of a pain on a snow board. Collapsable ski poles are useful here, or otherwise a generous skier friend might lend you one of theirs. Often the snow is hard and icy here, so the flat is fast enough to get along without too much effort.
Getting back to Chamonix:
From the Mer de Glace, the return to Chamonix very much depends on snow conditions. With good cover you can ski past the gondola station and after a 15 minute hike up to the ridge on your left its skis back on to follow the track down to the Planards ski area in Chamonix. If there’s no snow down to town (as is very often the case) then you need to take the gondola up to the Montenvers train station and ride the train back down to Chamonix.
Whichever route gets you back into Chamonix you’ll be very close to both Chambre Neuf and Elevation, where you can stop for a well deserved beer in the sun, unwind and reminisce upon your memorable day.
Some important tips:
Unless you absolutely know what you are doing, then make sure you hire a guide. They will not only ensure your safety but can also point out things of interest along the way and share some of their vast mountain knowledge with you.
At a very minimum you need to be able to ski red runs in parallel turns and in full control. You need to be confident enough to negotiate varying terrain and ice patches. The route is not steep but as there are crevasses around it is imperative to have solid control of your skis at all times.
You will need a harness and avalanche gear (transceiver, shovel, probe). Your guide can sort this out for you if you do not have your own.
Take a good back-pack to hold your gear. One with a ski/board attachment is preferable. Don’t forget suncream, water and food. Some chocolate is a good idea as you burn a lot of energy at altitude. Water is a must.
Make sure you wear warm clothing – it’s much, much colder at high altitude and there can be very strong winds on the ridge.
And don’t forget your camera…
Also… if you can, make your Vallee Blanche trip at the beginning of the week. It’s much quieter, as most people save it for the end of their trip. Obviously, if you havn’t skied for a while you might want to warm up first.
Weather is another factor when picking your day – you really do need a day of fine weather as its no place to be caught in a white out.
Above all: Stay safe and have fun!
Alternative Routes:
The route described is the classic Vallee Blanche descent. There are various alternative descents which are generally harder and steeper and vary in difficulty. Among them are the Vraie Vallee Blanche, Petit Envers and Grand Envers. If you are interested in skiing these more challenging routes then consult your guide. They are generally quieter and fantastic in powder snow, though the route finding can be harder and the dangers greater.
Other descents from the Aigiulle du Midi are the Cosmiques Couloir and the Rond Glaicer. These descend the north-west side of the Aiguille and you return either all the way to Chamonix (in good snow) or to the mid-station. These are both very steep routes (up to 50°) and so are only advisable for expert skiers.
On the even more extreme scale, the north face of the Aiguille du Midi, under the cable car has been skied! This is reserved for only a handful of the very best extreme skiers and only in the right conditions, which are rare. Still it’s something to think about as you ride the cable car up this sheer face!!
There are endless touring options from the Aiguille du Midi. One of the easiest and most accessible is to hike to Pointe Helbronner from where you can ski down to the Italian version of the Midi cable car, ride back up and take the Valle Blanche back to Chamonix. This makes for an excellent day as you get two superb descents. You’ll need a guide and all the touring gear.